2. Start by raising the bike and placing "jack stands" beneath to support the weight and make the bike secure while the wheels have been removed.

3. After securing the bike and removing the wheels we will start the install on the left front. It does not matter which side you start on but the pictures are of the left side and this will help with orientation.

4. We will start by removing the dust caps. These caps should be replaced as they help in keeping contamination out.

5. We need to remove cotter key then axle nut. After removing the nut you will need to take a block of wood and place it against the axle stub then strike it with a hammer to dislodge the axle from the hub.

 
6. Next is the removal of the brake caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle and lay them aside. DO NOT remove the caliper at this time. Leave it mounted on the rotor.

7. You will need to remove the brake hose from the knuckle at this point. Notice in the picture there is a hose clamp holding the hose to the knuckle you will have to completely remove the bolt to disconnect the clamp from the knuckle.

8. Next remove the tie rod from the knuckle. Be very careful in noting how the nut and washer are placed. It is best to put these back on the bolt this way it removes the confusion during reassemble.

9. t is a good thing to loosen the nut on top of the strut. This will allow the strut to be pulled aligned easier and moved during disassembly. Be sure to only loosen the nut about three rounds.

 
10. Remove the nut holding lower ball joint in place and lay the nut and cotter key to one side. Now you have to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. This can sometimes be a problem. There are two methods of doing this one is shown and is the method most often used. That is to wedge a bar, big chisel or screw driver between the knuckle and the lower control arm and with a hammer force the control arm off the ball joint stud. The other, the one I was taught and prefer, is to take two hammers one LARGE one and while holding this hammer against the control arm boss (this is where the stud is) strike the opposite side with the smaller hammer causing a pinching action dislodging the stud. This works since the stud is tapered on some bike this is not the case and will not work.

 
11. You can now remove the knuckle from the strut. Loosen the lower pinch bolt and the knuckle will slide off the strut.
12. Now comes the hardest part of the job for some. This is where the proper tools will make this quick or long and difficult. It will be necessary to remove some material from the knuckle to prevent contact with the CV boot as the axle angle will be changing. The next photos will show tools that will help in this process.
NOTE: I will not go into a lot of detail but from the pictures you can see just how much and where to remove the material.

 
13. In the left photo is a "burr" (a tool used in an air grinder to remove metal). You have to keep WD-40 or a light oil on the burr to keep the flutes from clogging up. Also shown is a "flapper disc" for grinding, go slow or it will clog. The other item is a metal cutting blade with carbide tips. This is used in an angle grinder or small saw and works the best.
14. On the right is a shot of how much material to cut off. Use the metal blade to remove the major section and the flapper wheel to finish it out.

15. On the left is a stock knuckle marked for removal and on the right is one with the material removed. Removing this material will not affect the integrity of the knuckle.

  
16. This shows the important step of installing the PVC spacer. Left shows the spacer being installed. The middle shot shows the spacer installed PRIOR to the knuckle being cut. We recommend that you install the spacer prior to cutting for the simple reason of combining a step and saving time. Right hand shot shows the finished knuckle. Notice the spacer is bottomed out in the knuckle and this is how it should look.

17. This shows the coil spacer in place notice the steel washer under the spacer. This should be installed to support the spacer.

Now is the time to start reassembling the bike. You should start by reversing the above procedure.

18.With the Coil spacer on the knuckle and the PVC spacer installed slip the knuckle back onto the strut.
19.Take the CV axle and insert the axle back into the knuckle.
20.Lift the lower control arm and insert the lower ball joint. Install the nut and leave it finger tight.
21.Place a jack under the control arm and apply pressure. This will push the strut back into the knuckle. Reach into the bottom of the knuckle strut tube and feel to see if the strut is seated on the spacer. If not use the method shown next to push the strut all the way down.

This shows how to push the strut down on the spacer. You may have to apply pressure to the strut on some installations. When you have the strut seated on the spacer tighten the lower pinch bolt on the knuckle.

22.Now continue reinstalling the tie rod, brake caliper, top pinch bolt and brake hose clamp and finally the axle nut.
23.Now tighten everything up and install the cotter pins.

REAR
1. Lift the rear of the bike and place jack stands to support the weight and stabilize the bike.
2. Remove the wheels and the rear shocks.
3. Disconnect the sway bar on both sides be sure to keep all the bushings and washers.

4. Install the relocation brackets as shown in the picture and be sure to install the spacer in the factory cross member. There is a factory hole in the frame rail to install the 3/8x1.0 bolt into. Install one bracket on each side of the cross member. Repeat this on the opposite side.

5. Reinstall the shocks and be sure to install the washer included as shown one on each side of the shock.

6. This is how it should look completed.

7. Reconnect the sway bar one side at a time insert the new bolt through the bushings as they came off use the new tube furnished in place of the stock aluminum link. Do not tighten when you do one side wait until you have the bolts and sleeves installed on both sides before you tighten. Tighten the nut on the bolt until you get swelling of the bushings.

8. Reinstall the wheels and place the bike on the floor.

Polaris 500-800 Rear Lift Brackets

The rear brackets on the Sportsman models are very simple to install. Follow the steps outlined below and you should have no trouble.

Shown here is the proper placement of the brackets and spacer. Notice the large bracket is placed on top of the control arm and on the outside of the factory shock mount. The sleeve and the small bracket are placed inside the stock mount on the control arm. The square u-bolt included in the kit is installed and nuts should be started at this time but nothing tightened up.

You may now install the shock and attachment bolt but nothing is tight at this point.

Once the shock and attachment bolt are in place you may now tighten the hardware. At this point you need to double check all hardware and make sure nothing is binding or will bind as the suspension travels thru it's cycle. Notice in the picture where the aluminum knuckle is almost touching the corner of the lift bracket. You may have to remove some material from the bracket or remove some aluminum from the knuckle. This is not true on all bikes. Pay close attention to this point and be sure nothing binds.

Remember you are the final check point!